• eliabethharwood

Kefalonia Guide

Updated: Sep 29, 2020


I stayed at the F Zeen Retreat (https://fzeenretreat.com/), pictured above and review to follow!

Getting Around

The island is bigger than expected and taxis are quite pricey. I would 100% recommend hiring a car if you plan on leaving your hotel.


Mount Aenos

We unsuccessfully attempted to drive to Mount Aenos. After reading lots of reviews and recommendations on how best to drive there (and also asking the hotel for help) we discovered that most of the roads are “B” roads but most of these "B" roads should be called "D" roads where the "D" stands for death. I am very used to windy country roads but nothing could prepare me for what we had in store. the roads are small, and incredibly rocky so more suitable for mountain bikes. You drive at the edge of a cliff, no barriers and after attempting to drive to the top I had to give up. It is no exaggeration that it was a near death experience. It’s one of the scariest things I have done and I wouldn’t recommend driving up unless on a tour. Even then I would question whether it would be worth it.  Mount Ainos nearly made a mount of sh*t come out of my anus.

Melissani Cave

Truly magical. Visiting Melissani cave is other worldly, it’s mesmerising and was one of my personal highlights. Visit at 12:00 when there’s the best visibility of the lake or first thing to avoid queues. (pictured above).

Fiskardo harbour

Fiskardo is a harbour town, with lots of yachts and boat tours. It’s very nice to grab some food here but I wouldn’t use it for beach time. 

Castle in Assos

About 1 hour round trip from top to bottom. The view of Assos from the castle is stunning, I personally would have liked for an information board to give historical context of the site.

De Bosset Bridge

The stone bridge on sea water in the world, again there is no information about the bridge or the oblix in the middle. From a tourism perspective, it would be great to have more historical context of what you are looking at.



Rip currents and can be dangerous. There are police patrolling the noise levels as rock slides are a risk. Pictured above.


If you are going to spend the day at the beach then Antisammos is your man. There are lots of beach clubs with restaurants and a variety of different loungers. The water is crystal clear with the most brilliant blues, it’s dream like.


Vinaries in Argostolia

There’s something romantic about the thought of walking along a harbour on a Greek island. The reality is that in the blistering heat, the only thing you want to do is sit in front of a fan with a wet flannel on your face. Whilst making the long (15min) walk in Argostoli to Vinaries, I really hoped the recommendation was worth it and to my luck it did not disappoint. The long, romantic lunch at Vinaries was a personal highlight of my trip to Kefalonia. The setting is gorgeous, paired back, by the sea and relaxed and offers the exact kind of food and experience I imagined before visiting. Long lunches of fresh grilled fish, lots of small plates along with larger ones. It’s a real delight and nothing says Greek holiday more to me than being meters from the beach with local food, paired back wooden furniture And attentive staff. Vinaries is a must if you’re in Argostoli- as an fyi They do have parking at the restaurant. Pictured above and below.

Lorraine’s Magic Hill

The views of the sunset at Lorraine’s Magic Hill are unmissable. Make sure you book an outdoor table so you capture the sun go down. With the reds and blues of the night sky and the sound of the crashing waves beneath you, the restaurant setting is all you want and more when escaping London. All the food is grown in their garden, they make their own cheese and the rest of the produce is local and fresh for that day. The set up of the restaurant makes it a must, especially when staying at F Zeen as it is quite literally 50m away. Pictured below.

Acron in Antisammos

The food was good, better than expected for a casual beach club. It comes out very quickly and they have a large menu filled with classic Greek dishes. 

Elli’s in Fiscardo

The restaurant is on the quieter side of the harbour which was certainly welcome given how many huge boat tours arrived as we were sat down. The staff are accommodating, hospitable and the food is yummy.


Traditional taverna style, some of the best service we had in Greece. Authentic, welcoming and exactly my cup of tea (or espresso freddo?). It’s a restaurant you wouldn’t look twice at when walking past but ended up being my favourite of the whole trip. The female owner is lovely and fun, very nurturing and makes you feel like her only customer. They serve fresh food with daily changing specials and offer something for everyone. You sit amongst fairy lights and beautiful trees, flowers with the blue and white wooden tables, classic of Greece. With the sound of the waves, the general setting, scenery, staff and food plus the VERY good prices, I wish I lived closer. Klimatis stole a little piece of my heart. 

Ice Cream

Dodoni in Fiskardo

Wow. As a very big ice cream snob I was very nicely surprised with how yummy this was! The owner is a cute and helpful man that you’d want to pick up and take home with you. I had the hazelnut praline which had pecans, almonds, chocolate and generally a lot of deliciousness inside. The cone was 10/10 for freshness, they also offer frozen yoghurt that you can add a variety of toppings to. You pay by weight- pictured above.

Spathis (various locations)

The staff are lovely. Lots of different and unusual flavours (baklava, kinder etc) amongst some of the firm favourites (pistachio, chocolate.. banana!). Picture below.

Other Recommendations

  • Activities: Drogorati Cave, Boat excursions , Horse riding, visiting Ithaca island Beaches: Makris Gialos, Fteri, Skala

  • Restaurants: Tasia in Fiskardo, Kyani Akti in argostolia

*all photos are my own except the F Zeen hotel

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